Grow citrus in a large pot of fast-draining mix, and move the pot indoors before frost.
Use a large draining pot and a fast-draining mix
| Factor | Recommended | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Pot | A draining container; start near 15 inches, step up toward 15 gallons | A cachepot with no hole, or garden soil in a tub |
| Mix | Citrus, cactus, or a peat mix cut with perlite or bark | Heavy yard dirt that stays wet |
| Kind | Dwarf rootstock, Meyer lemon, kumquat, calamansi, or Key lime | A full-size grapefruit on a standard rootstock in a 5-gallon bucket |
| Light | 8 to 12 hours outdoors in summer; a south or west window in winter, plus a lamp if the room is dim | A north room with no extra light if you want fruit |
In a cold climate the pot is the keep-alive. Buy a grafted dwarf. Seedlings get too large and often never fruit well indoors. [1] Lemons and limes need less heat to ripen than a sweet orange on a windowsill. [2]
What size pot does citrus need?
A draining pot about 15 inches wide is a fair start. Step up toward 15 gallons as roots fill the mix. Do not jump to a barrel you cannot water through.
Water when the top is dry, and move the pot indoors before frost
Pots dry fast in summer sun and stay wet too long in a cool room. Leaf drop after a move is common if you skip the acclimation week.
- Water until it runs from the hole, then empty the saucer. Water again when the top 1 to 2 inches of mix feel dry. Indoors that may be once or twice a week, not a daily calendar. [3]
- Feed a citrus or 2-1-1 fertilizer from spring through late summer. Stop in early fall so growth hardens. Skip feed in winter.
- Move the pot outdoors after nights stay in the 50s. Shift from shade to sun over two weeks. Bring it in before nights drop below about 50°F, or before the first frost. [4]
- In winter, aim for a south window, cooler nights than days, and a humidifier near 50 percent. Hand-pollinate flowers with a dry brush if you want fruit indoors.
- Repot when roots fill the pot, or root-prune to stay in a pot you can lift.
When do I bring citrus indoors?
Before nights stay below about 50°F, and always before frost. Acclimate over a week or two so leaves do not drop all at once.
What fails in a container
Garden soil in a closed pot rots roots. A pot left out in a freeze is a dead tree. Overwatering indoors drops leaves; underwatering drops flowers. Scale and mites build up on a winter windowsill — wash the foliage and treat before you bring the plant in. In-ground hole depth is not this job; that is Planting Citrus.
If nights are heading below 50°F, bring the pot in — do not wait for ice on the saucer.
FAQ
Do I need two trees in pots?
No. Most citrus sets fruit alone. A second pot nearby can help some mandarins. One Meyer or kumquat is the usual patio tree.
Why did the pot drop its leaves?
A sudden move, a wet mix, or a dry mix. Acclimate when you change rooms. Check the top 2 inches before you water.
Can I leave it out in a light frost?
Do not. Move it in. A light frost can still strip leaves and kill young wood on a potted lime or lemon.
Related guides
Recommended plants
References
- [1] University of Maryland Extension -
https://www.extension.umd.edu/resource/growing-dwarf-citrus - [2] Iowa State University Extension -
https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/growing-citrus-indoors - [3] University of Illinois Extension -
https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2023-12-22-cultivating-sunshine-growing-citrus-indoors - [4] UC Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County -
https://ucanr.edu/site/uc-master-gardeners-santa-clara-county/growing-great-citrus
This note is part of Citrus Guides.
More container notes by plant live in Container Growing Guides.
Updated: Reviewed by Bosquelle Editors