Plant a small container sourwood in spring, with the root flare at the soil line, and leave it in that spot. A later move often fails.
Plant a small container tree in spring, and leave it in that spot
| Factor | Recommended | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| When | Spring, while the tree is still young, before the first hard flush of growth | Moving an established tree in midsummer, or digging a wild tree from the woods |
| Stock | A small container-grown tree | A large balled tree, or a wild sapling with a wide, shallow root system |
| Hole | Wider than the pot and no deeper, with the flare at the soil line | A deep hole that buries the flare, or a wet pocket that holds a puddle |
| Mix | The existing acid soil, loosened, with pine-bark fines if the ground is heavy clay | Lime, marble chips, or a soggy peat pocket |
Set Sourwood in its permanent place while it is still small. If you plant ten trees, several will die and some of the rest will stay thin, unless you buy a container plant and leave it there. [1] A young container tree is the stock that takes, because a later move cuts the wide, shallow roots. [2] Spring is the window for a small container tree. [3] Pick an open acid bed, not a lawn strip where grass will compete for every inch of root room. [4] Sun and watering once the tree is established stay on How to Grow Sourwood.
- Buy a small container tree, not a wild sapling and not a large specimen you hope to move later.
- Dig a hole at least twice as wide as the pot and no deeper. Set the root flare at the soil line, or a little high in clay.
- Backfill with the existing soil. In heavy clay, mix in pine-bark fines so water still moves away from the roots.
- Water it in, firm the soil lightly, and spread two to three inches of acid mulch, keeping the mulch off the trunk.
When should I plant sourwood?
Plant a small container tree in spring, before the first hard flush of growth.
Can I transplant an established sourwood?
Usually no. The roots resent a move. Plant a young nursery tree and leave it in that spot.
Water it for the first two seasons, with the flare at the soil line
The first two summers decide whether the tree takes. Keep the soil moist, not soggy, out to the edge of the mulch. Do not bury the flare under more soil as it settles.
- Water deeply once a week in dry weather for the first two growing seasons, then taper off once new shoots are coming regularly.
- Check the flare after the first winter. If mulch or soil has piled against the bark, pull it back.
- Skip fertilizer at planting. A tree that yellows after a year usually wants better drainage or a more acid bed, not a richer feed.
How do I water a new sourwood?
Water deeply once a week in dry weather for the first two seasons, and keep mulch off the trunk.
If the new tree wilts after planting, check that the flare is still at the soil line and that the hole is not holding water.
FAQ
Should I start from seed or buy a nursery tree?
Buy a small container tree if you want a landscape plant sooner. Seed is a longer wait, and it is on Growing Sourwood From Seed.
Do I fertilize when I plant?
No. Water the tree in, mulch it, and wait. Fertilizer at planting does not help the roots take hold.
Related guides
Recommended plants
References
- [1] Virginia Cooperative Extension -
https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/HORT/HORT-27/HORT-27.html - [2] NC State Extension -
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/oxydendrum-arboreum/ - [3] Cornell Woody Plants Database -
https://woodyplants.cals.cornell.edu/plant/160 - [4] Oregon State University -
https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/plants/oxydendrum-arboreum
This note is part of Oxydendrum Guides.
More planting notes by plant are gathered in Planting Guides.
Updated: Reviewed by Bosquelle Editors