Grow and Care for Flame of the Forest

Grow and Care for Flame of the Forest guide illustration

Grow flame of the forest in full sun, on soil that drains, where a hard frost will not hit the tree. Flame of the forest is Butea monosperma. It is not Ixora, the shrub sold as flame of the woods, and it is not a royal poinciana.

How to Grow Flame of the Forest care summary diagram

Give it full sun, soil that drains, and a frost-free site

FactorRecommendedAvoid
LightFull sun, at least six hours a day; some afternoon shade is toleratedDo not plant it in deep shade if you want a full bloom
SoilSoil that drains; loam, sand, clay, or chalk is fine once water can leave the holeDo not plant it in a pocket that stays wet
WaterWater a new tree through the first couple of years, then less; let the soil dry toward winter so leaves drop and flowers showDo not keep the roots wet through winter
RoomLeave about 30 to 40 feet for the crownDo not crowd it against a house or a patio
WindA spot sheltered from strong wind, because the trunk is crooked and the wood is not stiffDo not plant it on an open bank where a storm can split the crown
FrostA frost-free garden, or a pot you can move under coverDo not leave it outdoors through a hard freeze

Flame of the forest wants full sun and a hole that still drains. Water a new tree through the first couple of years, then ease off. Let the soil dry toward winter so the leaves drop and the orange flowers open on bare wood. [1] Flame of the forest is a slow deciduous tree, about 30 to 40 feet tall and wide in the open, with a crooked trunk and three leaflets on each leaf. Give it a frost-free site. A hard freeze kills the top. A wet winter pocket rots the roots, and a winter that stays too wet, too dry, or too cold can skip the bloom. [2]

  1. Choose full sun and soil that drains. A dark, wet pocket is the usual cause of decline.
  2. Leave about 30 to 40 feet for a rounded crown. This is a specimen tree, not a patio shrub.
  3. Water through the first couple of years. After that, water only in a long dry spell, and let the soil dry toward winter so the tree can bloom.
  4. Keep it out of a hard freeze. If frost will hit the bed, grow it in a pot you can move.

How much sun does flame of the forest need?

Full sun, at least six hours a day. Some shade is tolerated, but a dark spot makes a thinner bloom.

How often do I water a new tree?

Water a new tree through the first couple of years, then less. Do not keep the roots wet through winter if you want flowers on bare wood.

Can I grow palash at home?

Yes, if you can give it full sun, soil that drains, and a frost-free site, or a pot you can move. Palash is the same tree.

Grow it in a pot you can move if frost will hit

If a hard freeze will reach the bed, keep the tree in a large pot with mix that drains, and move it under cover before the first hard frost. Water while it is in leaf. Ease off when the leaves drop.

  1. Use a large pot with a drainage hole and a mix that drains. A saucer of standing water rots the roots.
  2. Set it in full sun outdoors for the growing season.
  3. Move it to a bright, frost-free room or a greenhouse before a hard freeze.
  4. Do not expect a 30-foot canopy in a pot. This is a way to keep a young tree alive, not a houseplant shrub.

Plant with the flare at grade

If you are keeping a nursery tree, set the root flare even with the surrounding soil, in full sun, on ground that drains, out of the wind, and where frost will not hit it. A buried flare stays wet, and an open, windy bank splits the crooked crown. [3]

  1. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and about twice as wide. Set the flare at grade, not buried under extra soil.
  2. Backfill with the soil you took out. Mix in a little compost if the native soil is poor, then water to settle it.
  3. Keep mulch off the bark. Water through the first dry season, then ease off.
  4. Leave about 30 to 40 feet for the crown. Do not plant it where a hard freeze is routine unless you can move a pot.

How deep do I plant it?

Set the root flare even with the surrounding soil. A buried flare stays wet and the trunk rots.

Sow a soaked seed

Start a new tree from a fresh seed. Soak it in warm water overnight so the hard coat can take up water, then sow it about an inch deep in a mix that drains and stays warm. Sprouts often show in about 10 to 12 days. [4]

  1. Use a fresh seed. Soak it in warm water overnight, or nick the coat if it still feels hard after the soak.
  2. Sow it flat, about an inch deep, in a mix that drains. Keep the mix warm and just moist, not soggy.
  3. Move the seedling to its final hole, or into a larger pot, once it has two or three sets of leaflets. The taproot does not like a late disturbance.
  4. Do not wait on a cutting. Seed is the usual start. Root suckers can make extra plants, but do not spread them into a bed you cannot watch.

How do I start it from seed?

Soak a fresh seed overnight, sow it about an inch deep in a mix that drains, and keep it warm. Sprouts often show in about 10 to 12 days.

Prune after the flowers drop

Cut after the orange flowers drop, while you can still see the framework. Take out dead, broken, or crossing wood, and leave the next season's bloom wood. Do not top the tree.

  1. Wait until the flowers have dropped and new leaves are starting.
  2. Take out dead, broken, or crossing wood. Cut just outside the branch collar, not flush to the trunk.
  3. Shorten a wayward limb that will snag a path or a roof. Do not strip the crown in one cut.
  4. Do not prune hard just before bloom. Flowers open on wood that already formed.

When do I prune flame of the forest?

After the flowers drop. Take out dead or crossing wood then. Do not top the tree, and do not cut hard just before bloom.

Not flame of the woods — and not a royal poinciana

Flame of the woods is Ixora, a tropical shrub with tight flower heads. Flame of the forest is Butea, a 30-foot pea-family tree with three leaflets and curved orange flowers on bare wood. If the tag says flame of the woods, you have a shrub, not this tree.

A royal poinciana is Delonix. It has ferny, twice-cut leaves and five-petal flowers with one petal marked yellow and white. Some tags also call that tree flame of the forest. A coral tree is Erythrina, with claw-shaped flowers — see How to Grow Coral Tree. The Illawarra flame tree is Brachychiton — see How to Grow Australian Bottle Tree. Chinese flame tree is Koelreuteria — see How to Grow Golden Rain Tree. Bastard teak is a timber name for this tree, not true teak.

What is Butea monosperma called in English?

Flame of the forest. Palash, palas, dhak, and bastard teak are other names for the same tree, not extra kinds.

Which tree is called the Flame of the Forest?

Butea monosperma. It is not Ixora (flame of the woods) and not a royal poinciana.

Is it Ixora / flame of the woods?

No. Ixora is a shrub. This is a 30-foot tree with trifoliate leaves and flowers on bare wood.

Keep flame of the forest in full sun on soil that drains, in a frost-free site or a pot you can move, and let the soil dry toward winter so the orange flowers open on bare wood.

FAQ

Can I grow it from a cutting?

Seed is the usual start. Root suckers can make extra plants. Do not count on a stem cutting as the main method.

Are palash, dhak, and bastard teak different trees?

No. Palash, palas, dhak, and bastard teak are names for flame of the forest. They are the same species.

Is it used as medicine or dye?

People dye cloth with the flowers. Do not eat the seeds or bark as a treatment.

Recommended plants

References

  1. [1] Gardenia - https://www.gardenia.net/plant/butea-monosperma
  2. [2] Missouri Botanical Garden - https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=280658
  3. [3] Permaculture Plants - https://permacultureplants.com/plants/palash/
  4. [4] Useful Tropical Plants - https://tropical.theferns.info/viewtropical.php?id=Butea+monosperma

More first-season notes by plant are gathered in How to Grow Guides.

Updated: Reviewed by Bosquelle Editors

This guide is written for real gardens, not perfect climates. Results vary with site, season, and plant choice. We draw on multiple sources and practical experience; treat the steps here as honest guidance, not a promise that every bed will behave the same.